Stop 1 · France
Strasbourg
Its position on the Rhine is exactly why it was fought over — and exactly why the European institutions were placed here after 1949.
Cities that changed country without moving
Nobody here emigrated. The borders came to them — in some cases four or five times inside a single lifetime.
The five stops
Stop 2 · Italy
Trieste
The Free Territory was split between Italy and Yugoslavia in 1954. James Joyce wrote much of Ulysses here while teaching English.
Stop 3 · Ukraine
Lviv
Known as Lemberg under Austria and Lwów under Poland. The old town survived the wars nearly intact and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Stop 4 · Russia
Kaliningrad
Königsberg was East Prussia's capital for 700 years until 1945, when the population was expelled and the city renamed for a Soviet official.
Stop 5 · Russia
Vyborg
Viipuri was Finland's second city before 1940. Its 70,000 people were evacuated wholesale; most returned during the 1941–44 reoccupation, then left for good in 1944.
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